hat: Dayna Pinkham. suit: Duchess. photo: Carlin Sundell
When Dayna Pinkham sent her first model down the runway at “The Collections” fashion show at PFW this year, everyone could feel an immediate departure from the rest of the show. Whereas the music and mood of most the designers was subtle and slightly detached, Pinkham sent her models out with attitude and energy, even appropriating theatric flairs to illustrate her new wares. And what was new for Dayna Pinkham this year? An entirely male show—male models walked out to showcase a diverse line of men’s toppers. “Last year’s show on the streetcar was my introduction to Portland. I wanted to show my range and my craft. This year, I wanted to come out with my men’s hats and let everyone know I’m ready,” says Pinkham.
hat: Dayna Pinkham. suit: Duchess. photo: Carlin Sundell
The foray into the hatter’s domain
The transition into men’s hats evolved slowly at first and then gained rushing momentum that allowed for her to present an all male fashion show this fall. “For the last few years, men were coming in asking for hats and I would turn them away. Traditionally, hatters and milliners don’t cross crafts (hatters make men’s hats and milliners make women’s hats) and I was scared to cross over. I didn’t have a fedora block, which I thought was needed to make fedora. But after a while, I taught myself to hand sculpt the hats and as I continued to try it, I started to see more and more success. I was gaining more skill and letting go of my fears. I’m going to start showcasing men’s hats now (in her Morgan’s alley studio and showroom) and yes, men are no longer turned away!”
hat: Dayna Pinkham. suit: Duchess. photo: Carlin Sundell
Process
“Especially in the beginning, and definitely now to a large extent, I create hats for the individual. It’s really an art form and every hat is crafted expressly for the wearer. During the initial fitting, I size the man up and create something that suits him perfectly. For example, if the man has a strong jaw or cheekbone, I create ’shoulders’ in the crown of the hat. I push them out, and separating them develops more angle on the tip of the crown, giving necessary width for someone with a strong jaw.”
“Shoulders” is a term that Pinkham created to illustrate the crown of the fedora, and there are many more Pinkham phrases. “Broken nose” is when she pushes in the tip of the fedora; “stingy crown” is when she knocks the crown down to create a much shorter hat; “stingy brim” is when she utilizes a short one inch brim that produces a more casual and hip hat. These quirky phrases are all pure Pinkham and reflect her deep connection to her craft, as well as her whimsical nature.
“I’ve been collecting vintage fabrics, ribbons and trims for all the hats. One departure from making women’s hats is that with a woman’s hat I usually start with shape. With the men’s hats, I’ve been starting with the trim and finding the appropriate felt and shape for it.” This reverse process infuses a distinct style into each hat that’s very wearable. “I’m not really interested in doing a plain black hat with plain black trim. I want to make a hat that’s singular and interesting.” At this time, Pinkham pulls out a black fedora with black trim. “This one is a black on black, but you can see that there’s all of this contrasting texture and I’ve added this red feather—which of course is removable—so that there is always something interesting happening”. While she utilizes traditional shapes—fedora, cap, cowboy, pork-pie—her creations are always innovative and intriguing. Her cowboy hat is called “The Maverick”, because “it isn’t quite cowboy, but it’s western. The man who wears this is definitely well off and mischievous”.
hat: Dayna Pinkham. suit: Duchess. photo: Carlin Sundell
Why you should own a Pinkham Millinery hat
Like a custom made suit, a Pinkham hat may put your wallet back slightly. But unlike anything you can buy at the store, what you are getting is exactly what you want. This hat will fit your head perfectly. This hat will fit your style and vision perfectly. This hat will complement your wardrobe perfectly. Most of all, this hat will be yours and yours only. “I love seeing how thrilled men are when they pick up their hats. They get one and are hooked. The men who wear my hats know what they’re getting and they love it.” And what they’re getting is 48 solid hours of work. After the blocking, the hats are completely hand-stitched. Pinkham doesn’t ever use glue, and even her feathered pieces are all hand wrapped. “It’s a very laborious process, very intimate”. It’s no wonder that when you open one of those white hat boxes with the black ribbon, it feels like you’re opening the biggest, most important birthday present of your life. Honestly. Try it. It’s more exciting then opening a blue box (Tiffany’s) or an orange box (Hermes) because you know exactly how much individual passion and effort is in that box.
What’s next
Dayna Pinkham is currently collaborating with designer Camilla Staerk for the Fall 2008 fashion show, which takes place in February in New York City. “I have to make 15-35 hats by January!” Which means if you want a hat to ring in the new year, you best be heading over to her studio ASAP.
She also has a secret announcement for the new year that she wouldn’t even divulge to us yet. “This craft is so fascinating because it just gets better and better with no end in sight.” We’re waiting with bated breath.
–Patricia No
Pinkham Millinery (515 SW Broadway, in Morgan’s Alley)
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