photo: Jaycob Desrosiers
What the Tom Ford sensibility created for Gucci in the 90’s, entrepreneur Miranda Goldstein creates at the western edge of the Pearl District with Holden’s Bistro. When the garage door entrance scrolled open and the luscious smell of dahlias mixed with humid August rain invited us inside, we were welcomed by the tall and beaming restauranteuse Miranda Goldstein of Laguna Beach, California. Holden’s Bistro has been serving understated elegance since 2002, but Goldstein just celebrated her one year anniversary of restaurant ownership.
photo: Jaycob Desrosiers
A free-spirited staff delivering service of the highest caliber, along with the food, of course, is the trademark of this restaurant. Holden’s specializes in upscale comfort food at not-so Pearl District prices. Inside, the industrial framework contrasts with the alluring jewelry box interior with a wall filled with fresh cut flowers (for summer, candles in winter) and a shimmering chandelier. We were seated in a dark wood booth near the aromas of the kitchen and served by a stylish employee named Elizabeth in a delicate white pinafore and smart hat.
Goldstein describes the menu as, “American, eclectic, where ingredients are locally sourced whenever possible.” The appetizers were reminiscent of California cuisine with light, seafood fare of dungeness crab cakes, crab nachos, shrimp tacos and grilled chicken skewers. Our entree was the renowned Holden’s burger with fries in a basil-aioli sauce, and it certainly lived up to its reputation as one of the best burgers in Portland. Dessert consisted of a doughy cinnamon bun that melted like cotton candy in your mouth, a sinful chocolate mousse, and a wedge of key lime pie. A bottle of Veuve Clicquot kept our summer thirst away. The creative cocktails are yet another signature, like the refreshing Rolling Stone, Holden’s interpretation of the mojito, the Lavender Sidecar, and the Bima margarita.
While dining, we welcomed a guest to our table—because that’s the vibe at Holden’s—Tim Janchar of Work/Sound Gallery. As a regular patron, he noted Holden’s as the place for, “Punks and parents. You can bring your parents here, or your bandmates before a show, then come back after the show for more.”
Holden’s Bistro is an unexpected surprise in the bustling Pearl District community. Miranda Goldstein demurs from answering questions about the future of her restaurant. What matters to her is the present moment, whether it be the food in front of us, doting encouraging words to her staff, personally greeting her clients, or her favorite song playing. The success of Holden’s Bistro is due to Goldstein’s passion and energy for the restaurant. You can’t help but become seduced by the gastronomic delights, the space itself, the complete Holden’s experience.
–Ashkan
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