Still wading through the jetlag and slight disappointment over not having delicious Indian food at every corner, I have returned from the UK. Having left to attend both New York and London Fashion Week, my trip closed in London where I was accompanying my client, Entermodal, as we had our official European launch at the Esthetica exhibition at LFW.
Esthetica’s inaugural show was only last September when the design team of the eco-label From Somewhere were asked by the British Fashion Council to co-curate an exhibition of the best in eco-sustainable high fashion from around the world. Estethica’s aim was, “to position ethical fashion within the industry’s mind and no longer as a fringe statement, proving not just ethical but also its creative and commercial commitment.” Esthetica’s mission was undoubtedly accomplished, judging by the astounding amount of interest by both the press and buyers at the exhibition. I believe much of the success is linked to a well-rounded list of exhibitors including Gary Harvey, AgainNYC (adorably repurposed vintage), Katherine E. Hamnett (political spectacle), and Del Forte (the premium denim darlings). The exhibitors were diverse in style and, most interesting to me, in their varied approach to integrating eco/ethical ideals into their product and company. Some labels simply use recycled materials, while others turned to technology in hopes of developing an eco-superior material. Wandering around I spotted fair trade principles in action, leather alternatives, innovative reuse of luxury fabrics, sustainable design, and vast improvements to the leather industry all on display.
Gary Harvey
While impressive and hopeful, much of the discussion between exhibitors and press revolved around if this recent surge of interest in eco-fashion will simply be a passing trend. Will larger companies forfeit profits in order to have more sustainable products and less of an impact on the environment? Is buying with a conscience something that the general consumer values? And for the larger companies who have already followed suit, (like H&M’s organic line and Gap’s Red campaign) are their intentions truly honorable?
Again NYC
It seemed fitting that these discussions, littered with tangents, were happening in and around London Fashion Week in particular. London, after all, makes its introductions as the city where fashion pioneers emerge and the boundaries of creativity and experimentation are pushed to their limits. And after just being in New York, I agree. In NY reputation and connections are the rules of the game, whereas in London people are on the hunt for an unlikely star. Geographically it makes sense, London is smack in the middle– gaining influence from all the right neighbors.
A term I hadn’t heard before my trip but stumbled upon continuously in the UK was Slow Fashion vs. Fast Fashion. Taking its cue from the food industry, and specifically the Slow Food movement out of Italy, the term Slow Fashion closely parallels its culinary analogue. Slow versus Fast, quality versus trend, sustainable design versus mass (and many times thoughtlessly) produced. After meeting so many environmental fashion pioneers in London, I predict Slow Fashion, although completely at odds with the industry it exists within, will start to gain more and more momentum. Hell, the small southern town from which I hail finally has an organic produce section in the grocery store, so with a little time anything is possible.
–Erin Rackelman occasionally writes notes home from her fashion industry travels for ultra
WHAT TO DO NOW?