Way before Columbia, before Nike, and, depending on which date you use for incorporation, as old as Pendleton, Jantzen is one of Oregon’s oldest brands, and one of our most significant claims to fashion history.
From its founding in 1910 as a woolen mill to its emergence in the late 1910s as an advocate for swimming as a physical activity, to its pioneering of fabrics and techniques throughout its history, Jantzen has the most storied past of any brand to emerge from Portland (Pendleton started in Salem and moved to the town whose name it took later). Its icon, the Diving Girl, is one of the earliest corporate mascots and is recognizable around the world.
Considering that pedigree, it is a distinct pleasure to see the diving girl returning to form as part of an extensive revamp of the line by new corporate parent Perry Ellis International, which bought Jantzen from VF Corporation in 2002. Seth Ellison, President of Perry Ellis’ Action Sports/Active Division, explained that the brand had suffered from trying to do too much in the 60s and 70s, that Jantzen had tried to produce sportswear, swimwear and other clothing aimed at the greatest common denominator, and that the result was brand dilution. “You can either harvest a brand or reinvent it,” Ellison says. “Beginning last year we put a whole new team into place. We looked at the heritage and liked what we saw.” Perry Ellis proceeded with a reinvention effort which involved careful consideration of what the brand represented, as well as how to keep that heritage fresh.
The culmination of that effort was the unveiling of a new line in Miami earlier this year, with a reversion to the classic logo, the reappearance of the Diving Girl, and model Carolyn Murphy as the face of the brand.
The new line sticks to the basics and combines up to date looks with classic touches to recapture the faded glamour of the brand, but at the same time attract new customers from a slightly younger demographic. The vehicle for this is the three different groups of the Jantzen reoffering: Signature, Pool, and Beach.
The first is a more overt look to the glory days, with suits in black and white and earth tones, and the signature print taken from a 1965 Jantzen look. The Signature group is almost entirely one-piece suits, several studded with Swarovski crystals. Think glitz, glamour, Vivian Leigh (to whom Jantzen once gave a suit woven from 24 karat gold thread).
The second group, Pool, is simpler, with fewer ruffles, and a wide variety of separates in black or brown, with the addition of a few prints. The last group, Beach, is the one most clearly aimed at those least likely to remember Jantzen from the first go-round. The line is almost entirely bikinis and features younger cuts in a brighter and more playful palette than its older sisters, with oranges, greens and blues appearing as solids or in mod or tropical prints.
Particularly amazing is the fact that Jantzen, unlike many other brands with “heritage”, still maintains firm links with the past. No Abercrombie & Fitch here: virtually every look in the new Jantzen line has some connection to a design from the past. This is not accidental, since Jantzen maintains an on-site archive of designs dating back almost to its founding. Wool suits from the early days, cotton models with extensive ruching from the 40s, and more psychedelic 70s bikinis. This history is cared for by a dedicated (in both the corporate and personal sense) employee who has spent more than 20 years with Jantzen, and a visit to the company’s offices off NE Sandy saw designs from the archives hanging over drafting tables where the next generations of Jantzen product are taking shape. Clearly this is an operation for whom “heritage” is not just a buzzword.
The end result is very promising: after years in the desert of uninspired diminution, Jantzen is back on track with a line which draws inspiration from the brand’s past while moving to capture a new generation of young independent women. Welcome back, Diving Girl. The water’s just fine.
The Jantzen relaunch is set for Spring 2007, and can be found in upscale stores soon.
–Will Levin
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