photo: Pete Springer
The clothes were only half the story at last night’s fashion show at the Portland Art Museum to formally announce Macy’s arrival in Portland. Meier & Frank no longer has what you want. But Macy’s is betting that it does. Which is why the pagentry, and there was a lot of it, was so important in the slickly produced show. The audience was greeted by a revolving red star, of the sort Macy’s has used as an apostrophe for the past few decades, and the show was introduced by none other than Jeff Jenette, CEO of Macy’s Northwest. He singled out Gerry Frank, scion of the “Frank” part of Meier & Frank, for his support and noted that a third of all ticket sales would go to Mr. Frank’s favorite charity.
Macy’s is pitching its arrival in the Land of the Empire Builders as a return to form for a tarnished local icon. Mr. Frank noted after the show, “Macy’s has brought a completely new approach to presentation. Meier & Frank was known for presentation, and after it was bought by May [Department Stores] it went downhill. Macy’s is bringing back Meier & Frank traditions.”
photo: Pete Springer
The clothes themselves were highly commercial, with roughly 2/3 of them coming from Macy’s in-house labels Analfi (modern workwear) and INC (more “runway-inspired”). Interspersed were pieces from Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, and Kenneth Cole. Indeed, most of the equestrian segment of the evening was the demesne of Ralph Lauren, doing preppy like only a middle class Jewish boy from the Bronx knows how. There were some surprises, such as a velvet-detailed riding skirt and a swallow-tailed tweed jacket, which made for welcome relief from the usual sturm und drang of riding pants and polo shirts.
photo: Pete Springer
While the shoes mostly blended with the theme of the looks, two trends were more prominent. Many shoes featured animal prints, especially in the women’s workwear. And the one nearly ubiquitous shoe was a version of a WWII tanker boot, lengthened and cleaned up for a woman. This chunky shoe gave even more mundane looks a little edge.
Macy’s offered up many variations on several current trends. The pencil skirt appeared in many forms and finishes. Slim shorts for women also worked well, as did the occasional velvet in either a jacket or a skirt. The suits for women were all highly fitted, with tight jackets and pants with sailor-like proportions. There were some odd-looking pieces as well, such as an ao dai-looking number in evening wear, followed by a sort of triple-decker sari.
photo: Pete Springer
The athleticwear part of the show could be summed up in six words: red, white, black, Nike Adidas, Puma. It’s worth noting, that Mr. Jennette singled out athleticwear as something which distinguishes Macy’s Northwest from other locations. In the South they sell a lot of colors, he said, but Northwesterners demand functional sportswear.
Federated, Macy’s parent company, has turned Meier & Frank’s swan song into a honeymoon with the local incarnation of their nationwide charm offensive.
–Will Levin
photos: Pete Springer
updated Saturday September 23 2006 0:44
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